12V 10W LED Flood Light

I purchased one of the LED flood lights from Amazon:


OK, I guess I should mention the really stupid thing I did to the first one. You will note that this is a 12V light. The box said 120V. It had been weeks between buying it and hooking it up so I forgot and just assumed the box was right. BANG. Breaker tripped and light destroyed.

So I bought another. I hooked it up to my variable power supply and started with 0V. As I headed toward 12V, it came on at about 5.5 and I didn’t really notice much difference in brightness as I got up to 12V (then again it is so bright I simply might not have noticed).

It works great and produces a little more light than a 60W bulb @12V and .8A.

I had a 9V battery sitting on the table. Hmmm, will it work I wondered. Sure does!! A 9V battery isn’t going to power it very long, but it was cool to see a battery that small produce that much light!

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One Response to 12V 10W LED Flood Light

  1. Sean Straw says:

    A while back I ordered a quantity of 10W LEDs off of AliExpress. $0.42 apiece – just the whopper of a LED element, no case or reflector.

    I affixed one to a CPU heatsink (just the aluminium bit, fan removed) and soldered leads with spade connectors on the end so that I can connect to a 12V utility battery. I was out installing a new tank riser on my septic system the other night and set the battery there and set out the LED nearby. Tons of light to work by. Even after an hour of operation, the heatsink is only warm, not uncomfortably so.

    The elements I have are a 3×3 matrix of semiconductor junctions inside the LED die. At less than full voltage, they’re not all lit up, and you can make out the individual junctions. At full drive, you can’t bear to look at the LED…

    I’m considering setting up these LEDs on a couple of my backup generators, so I have light at the generator for operating controls or refilling fuel without fumbling with a flashlight. With a switch of course so it isn’t running constantly.

    I’d wager the unit you blew out has no power supply/regulator/etc inside – just the wires running to the LED. Since it’s already toast, you’re not out much by opening it up and seeing if the LED is something you can remove. If it’s the same form factor as shown for the 10W in the link below (the bottom two cells of the quad image used as the initial ad picture), I’d be happy to send you a 12V 10W LED element to replace yours – just contact me using the address I assume you have access to from the reply form. Note the same vendor also sells current limiters for driving this sort of thing from AC mains.


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