How to Crimp Your Own 0.1″ Terminals to Jumper Wires

I really like to use pre-terminated M/M, F/M, and F/F wires such as these found on amazon:

The 0.1″ pins fit into breadboards and most breakout board male or female headers.

Sometimes, though, the pre-terminated jumper wires are either too long or too short and I want to make a custom jumper wire.

To do this, you will need a crimper, male and female terminals, housings, and 22AWG wire.

I purchased an IWISS SN-28B Crimper from Amazon:

I purchased male and female pins from pololu:


and also the connector housing:

I had no luck finding an explanation on how to crimp the terminals onto the terminal and destroyed a few learning. So I decided to post an instructional video of how I crimp the ends with success:

Update: I’ve had this for about a month now and have found multiple unexpected uses for it like building decent 9V breadboard connectors:


Oct 2016 Update:

Everyone complains about the clarity of the video, and they are right – it sucks. I use a lumix dmc-lx7 which is a great still camera. But the video can suck. It seems it focuses at the start of the video and never again so close up videos like this don’t work well.

Admittedly, I never really expected this video to be viewed by anyone but myself so I didn’t care. Surprisingly, it has ended up being my top video.

Rather than waste time trying to make another video that will almost certainly have the same issues, I will post a series of stills here which should make the process much clearer.

Here is an enlargement of a dupont terminal:


The crimper will bend two sets of tabs (though there are actually 3 sets). The far right tabs will attach to the insulation while the center set of tabs will attach to the conductor. The very small set of tabs right before the bridge are not bent (at least not by this tool).

First, prep the wire by stripping it such that the insulation is going to be grabbed by the first set of tabs and the conductor by the second. The bridge gives you a little slack so you don’t have to be too exact on where to cut the insulation:


Now note the ridge inside of the tool’s jaw. You are going to align the terminal such that the left side of the insulation tabs (using pic above) butt up against this ridge.


Here is the terminal in place in the tool with the tabs against the ridge (note that the .1″ style terminals use the center crimp on the jaw):


Now close the jaws just enough to hole the terminal in place:


Here is the other side:


With the wire already stripped and the tool holding the terminal snuggly, it is fairly easy to insert the wire into the terminal:


Do take another quick look to verify the conductor is past the 2nd set of tabs before you squeeze the tool tight and finish the crimp.

here is the completed wire and terminal:



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2 Responses to How to Crimp Your Own 0.1″ Terminals to Jumper Wires

  1. Sean Straw says:

    I’ve used a few for breadboards, but mostly, I use DuPont connectors for making pluggable connectors for PCBs – motor, power, sensor, etc, into the Berg headers.

    I find that to get a tight crimp on the insulator so that it fits smoothly into the back of the DuPont shroud, after the first crimping action, I need to slide the connector in the crimper so that the insulation crimp is resting in the conductor crimp zone and hit it with a second squeeze.

    For stripping wires, I like to use a tool made by OK Industries:

    It’s not a cheap wire stripper, and but there are models that cover different ranges of wire gauge (I have a couple, though the ST-450 sees the most use). An adjustable depth stop block allows the wire to enter the tool only so far, so each and every wire you strip has a consistent conductor exposure. You dial in the wire gauge, which limits how much the tool can “bite” the wire, and insert the wire through a single hole in the end of the tool. Squeeze the tool and give it a slight twist and pull the wire, and you have a clean, consistent stripped wire. The tool is a joy to use.

    When I crimp for power connectors, I like to use female only on the source side (so that a battery/pack on a bench can’t short exposed pins on something). This works great for project PCBs which have Berg headers on them, and when you want to plug the battery pack into a breadboard, all you need to do is take a pair of berg pins, push the insulator rib down so that about equal amounts of pin are above and below it, then put that into the power buss of the breadboard and stick the DuPont header into that.

  2. Atomic Skull says:

    I have heard that the Hozen P-706 works much better for crimping Dupont type terminals (also known as Mini-PV terminals though the “official” FCI Amphenol ones actually a a bit different than the generic ones you usually see) than generic double D crimps. For the insulation you use the 1.8mm round die and for the conductor you use the the 1.4mm double D. The “official” tooling for these terminals wraps the wings of the insulation crimp around the wire so that it “hugs” it. For official tooling HT-95’s are common on ebay but clunky and hard to use (they have no wire stop so you have to line up the wire by eye. However they go for around $50 on ebay usually. There is also the similar HT-73 (18-20 AWG) and HT-104 (version for crimping male terminals) Less common is the older tool, the HT-208 which does have a wire stop but only does 22-26 AWG wire (the HT-213 is identical except it does 26-32AWG). These have a wire stop that lines up the insulation between the two crimp sections perfectly every time. These tools are long out of production but show up on ebay albeit less commonly than the HT-95.73/104. The best current tool is the RCY21208 and RCY21213, both are exensive and I have never seen a used one. Harwin also has a tool for their own Dupont pins (which they call M20 pins) called Z20-320 which is the least expensive new, but again I have never seen a used one (the HT95 and HT208/213 have been around for decades so there are a lotm of surplus ones floating around out there). The official tooling have a termiunal holder and (except for the HT95 and HT-73) have a wire stop.

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